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Triumph Spitfire Cars

With the Engine and Gearbox safely removed it was time to get on with removing everything else which is bolted, screwed, stuck or attached in some method to the body and chassis.

The brake and clutch master cylinders were carefully disconnected from their copper pipes, I am not sure at the moment whether to buy new master cylinders or buy a seal kit for the old ones, it will probably depend upon what they look like once I strip them down. With the master cylinders out if the way the pipes were removed without too much care and in some places just cut through as I will be replacing them with a new pipe kit.

The wiring loom was removed throughout the car taking great care to photo and label all the connections as the loom looks in quite good order and because finances are limited it will be reused after a good clean and all the connectivity checked through.

I have read 2 different books on Spitfire Restoration Cars and had comments from loads of people, some say never take the body off the chassis before completing the repairs to the body others say you are OK to take it off as long as the body is supported.

I decided the best way for me (only having a single garage) was to support the body and remove it so that the chassis could be repaired and then the chassis could be moved to the side of the house and covered until required.

Related : Triumph Spitfire
Related : Restoration Cars

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Triumph Spitfire MK IV Cars

The main aim of the next part of the work is to remove various bits and pieces so that I can pull the engine and gearbox. When I first bought the car the first thing I did was change all the water hoses and clips so I removed these first carefully so that I could reuse them once the restoration was complete. As the hoses had only been on for about 6 months these came of nice and easily. With the hoses removed the next job was to take out the radiator which was a real pain, the bolts came out of the radiator without any problems and enabled me to remove the radiator for safe keeping and checking later. The pain was that the support brackets which support the radiator to the chassis would not come off the chassis and they are right in the way so every time you do work in that area you were guaranteed to catch yourself on one of them. I soaked the bolts is loads of penetrating oil and eventually with a little help from a big hammer they gave in and came off.

To make the engine lighter and easier to lift the next job was to take off the engine ancillaries such as the alternator, starter motor, carbs and manifolds. These all came off without any problems and were stored carefully in labelled boxes to be cleaned up and checked at a later date.


With the radiator and engine ancillaries removed there is so much more room so any remaining wires were labelled and any other bits and pieces which could get in the way during the lift (such as the horns) were also removed at this point.

Related : Triumph Spitfire Cars ~ Spitfire Mark IV Part 1
Related : Triumph Spitfire Cars ~ Spitfire Mark IV Part 2

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Triumph Spitfire MK IV Car

Let's start the renovation. In this series of articles did not try to teach you how to do things or recommend methods, I will document my experiences and how I wanted to do the things they were right or wrong I am sure that you get something from them.

Before the start I have a lot of digital photos of reference, so that when it comes time to get all pieces that I have some idea where they then have to go all back together again. I also wrote a spreadsheet. I use the overview of all components that are removed from the vehicle to hold. In this way the components are known, the number of reported storage box and the field position is recorded and the necessary work has also been observed, so that at the end of the restoration of all components should be complete and ready to assemble the machine again.

I also read many books in the context of the two, I can recommend as they happen in step by step details and photos of the restoration of a Triumph Spitfire.

I raised the Spitfire in the garage ready to go, the first step to avoid the battery was, sparks or the short circuit while working on the car.

The Spitfire was designed with a separate chassis and an engine hood, front-hinged piece that gives unparalleled access to the area of the engine compartment.

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Classic Triumph Spitfire Cars

Over the next few weeks the cars was very reliable and great fun to drive as long as the speed was kept below 55. All the mechanical components were working fine, all the gears could be selected without any crunching, the engine was running smooth (as can be expected from this type of engine) and no oil was being burnt or dropped ( yes there was oil in the sump).

Triumph Spitfire Cars what then that a new plan was formulated, instead of starting on the restoration straight away I would use the car over the summer and start the project when the weather started to turn for the worse.

I decided to do a few jobs to ensure smooth running over the summer, the first of which was the troublesome prop-shaft. I jacked up the Triumph Spitfire Cars, put it on axle stands (safety first) to check for play in the prop but couldn't feel any movement. I decided it was best to change the universal joints anyway, just to be on the safe side, as a disintegrating prop-shaft can be very dangerous.

I had changed the universal joints on my MGBGT a couple of years ago so I was sure of the procedure, the only difference being that on the MGBGT the prop-shaft is removed completely from below, where as on the spitfire the connections to the axle are removed from below and the gearbox end is disconnected from inside the Triumph Spitfire Cars.This does mean having to remove part of the interior trim and the transmission cover. Once the prop-shaft was out it was clear that the universal joints were long past their best, in fact in one of the universal joints most of the needle bearings were missing.